Greetings modeling community!
Ye ol Snoopster has been absolutely swamped with projects over the past month. Now there is a contest rapidly approaching, and I am working on getting gear ready for that. Some of the projects include, a new computer! My first computer, actually. Much time has been spent trying to learn to use it for more than email. I have been using a library computer for a couple of years now, and finally bit my root beer can and bought my own. What a headache to learn a new system! And not having a librarian around to help leaves me stuck sometimes! Oh well, I suppose that's the way it goes!
Some other modeling related projects on the horizon, a new batch of combat planes, a couple different speed planes, a new class 1 carrier plane, and maybe, just maybe even a new stunter. But it all takes time, and I have been a bit short on that here lately. Luckily, I was able to make up a few new sets of lines for speed and combat that I needed, so at least that is done! Speaking of lines, I wish to thank Mike Hazel for a postcard I received from him recently. Yes! I said postcard, with a real stamp on it, and arriving good ol' fashioned snail mail. Thank you! Also coming to mind, a good safety topic regarding lines,
Your lines do more than just provide control for your airplane, they are an important link from you to your airplane. When you make up new lines, be sure you measure them very carefully, with the intended airplane and handle. Even sets that are already made up, may not be the right lengths. This is not as critical in stunt as it is for any event that time for speed, distance, or combat. It is good to check line length even for stunt, because if you have a factory pre-made set, they may be too long. It wouldn't be the first time that someone had pre-made lines that were several feet longer than advertised. Check the diameter of the line with a micrometer to be sure its the correct size for your application. When you make up your ends, make sure that your line passes through the thimble 3 times, and is tight around the eyelet. Make sure your eyelets will properly fit the connectors that will be used, as some will not fit the squeeze type clips. When you make your crimps, use a good crimping tool, such as a Kline, or Thomas Betts. These tools will provide a strong crimp, without over doing it. Do not use brass thimbles, as they are hard, and often crack at the crimp. I use copper tubing, and make them about a half inch long. This is long enough for two crimps. Make sure that you chamfer the ends with a knife or a drill bit to remove any burrs or sharp edges, and do not crimp at the end of the thimble, as it creates a sharp edge that will cause an early failure, and we don't want that! If you prefer to wrap your ends, do not solder braided line. The heat from soldering cable greatly reduces the strength of the line, so just put a few drops of C/A or epoxy on your wraps. Solid lines may still be soldered, and a monoline must be soldered. And finally, inspect used lines for kinks and twists. A "curl" isn't as dangerous as a sharp kink. A sharp kink effects the strength, unlike a curl, that is much more annoying than dangerous and finally, remove any twists that you might have and carefully roll them up.
I would like to mention Todd Ryan's article about fuel tank construction in the racing section of this newsletter. Thank you for the great article, as tanks can be a perplexing mystery sometimes, and especially for a beginner.
Also to Paul Gibeault for his interesting thoughts about muffled sport racers. Will that be a reality? Probably someday we will not have a choice...
HAPPY FLIGHTS, AND SMOOTH LANDINGS!
--Snoopy
This page was upated April 13, 2006