Northwest Speed Scoop

By Mike Hazel

February 2009

Getting a line on wire

Looking for some flying wire for your B, D, or Jet???  The following note is from Melvin Schuette, of MBS Model Supply:

"I now have .026 and .033 solid wire for sale. It is music wire that has been straightened. They will both be sold as a single 70' wire on a spool. The cost for the .026 is $6.85 plus shipping and the .033 is $9.00 plus shipping. I do have a few sets of .026 with two wires on a spool at $10.00 per spool, but when they are gone I will not be making up any more this way." Contact MBS Model Supply.

The 2009 contest trail:  This year may shape up to be a little different than in the past couple of years.  Here's what is coming up:  First off is the Jim Walker Memorial meet in Portland.  Speed will be flown record ratio on Friday April 17th.  Site is the usual place in Delta Park.  Next up is the NW Regionals in Eugene with two full days of all events.  Next summer is the West Coast All Proto championships in Salem, being put on by the Broadway Bod Busters on August 1 & 2.  This meet will be something different for a change, check out the flyer in the "Where the Action Is" section.  The status of the usual speed meet in Salem is somewhat in limbo, as the contest director has plans to build a house this year.

Other possibilities???  Scott Newkirk and his gang have threatened to do a meet if they can find a suitable venue.  Have also heard some rumblings from the BC ACES boys from up North, thinking about a contest.  Hey guys, what about it?

What can we expect to see at the speed circle in 2009?  That question is best answered by what is going together in the workshop right now.  From way up North, word is that Marty Higgs has a pretty slick looking  "small block D", aka 40 power.  It's a fully tricked-out K&B 40 in a sleek monoline ship.  Looks like fun! 

Back stateside, it sounds like the BBB group is going gangbusters on some new speed stuff.  This includes a big block bird, but can't say anymore about it than that.  It's supposed to be secret, ya know! 

And we should see a whole bunch of the new event F2D proto birds coming out.  Hey, I gotta get started on mine!  By the way, if you are stymied for a design one of the many Goodyear racer designs should work nicely.  If you want to get real lazy, build one of the Sig Buster or Shoestring kits.

The following is from Glen Dye, pulled off of the Speed Forum, addressing someone's question regarding removal of prop drive on K&B engine:

" Correct procedure for removal of the K & B pressed on prop drive-spool:

  1. Turn off threads on 1/4 x 28 TPI bolt as Scott suggests long enough to clear  plain 1/4 " dia. shaft length.
  2. Heat  PROP DRIVE ...ONLY...with propane torch (GENTLY)
  3. Insert 4 x 40 allen wrench (3/32") in set screw and unscrew far enough TO CLEAR SHAFT ( @ 3 ~ 4 Turns), and put in GREASED 1/4 X 28  puller bolt into prop driver, and using the 3/32" Allen wrench as Anti-rotation device.
  4. Heat Prop-drive with torch and  screw in 1/4 x 28 bolt until it is clear of shaft.
  5. Using a small press;  Press shaft clear of bearings..   Rear bearing will usually 'stay' on shaft and need to be pulled with a "Guillotine" separator.
  6. Heat Ft.housing and GENTLY tap out Ft. bearing from housing.
  7. Buy new bearings...
  8. Installation of new bearings:  PLASTIC CAGE, WITH C-3 OR C-4 INTERNAL CLEARANCE ONLY...!  Mic. shaft:    Dimensions should be @ .0001 ~ .0003"   UNDERSIZE from 'nominal' dimensions... BOTH BEARINGS SHOULD BE A 'LIGHT-PRESS' FIT ON CRANKSHAFT, AND @...MINUS... .00005 ~ .001" FIT IN HOUSINGS.
  9. Assembly  should be :  Press rear brg. onto shaft with proper tool.  USE OIL OR LUBE...!  ...NOT DRY....!  Oil housing with Marvel Mystery Oil, and heat until it just BEGINS to smoke....  Insert Shaft and rear bearing assy. into housing. Using tool, press front bearing onto shaft, and into ft.brg. pocket. (simultaneously)...CHECK FOR PROPER ALIGNMENT OF SET SCREW WITH FLAT ON SHAFT....!
  11. Loctite set screw and Prop-stud with loctite.   You can also forgo the 'heating' of the prop-driver if you plan on using Loctite here...

     ALIGNMENT IS ...VERY... CRITICAL IF YOU DO IT THIS WAY....!   When 'properly' done, shaft will be free-turning, either  COLD OR HOT,  and have @   .003 ~ .005" end play...."

That's all for now, see you in the speed circle!

-- ZZ

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This page was upated Feb. 26, 2009